This article covers all the steps required to prepare, install, and finish tile. For a more comprehensive guide, please see our web site.
Laying a tile floor consists of the following steps:
- Prepping the subfloor
- Installing the tile
- Grouting and sealing the tile
- Installing moldings and transitions
Materials Required:
- Tile
- Sanded Grout
- Thinset Mortar
- Grout Sealer
Tools Required:
- Chalk Line
- Tape Measure
- Notched Trowel
- Wet Saw
- Spacers
- Grout Float
- Sponge
Floor Preparation
First, remove the toilet and any other fixtures that may be in the way. If there is existing shoe molding, remove it as well, however you may leave the baseboards in place.
A solid and level surface is required for installing a tile floor. A concrete slab floor must be properly leveled. A plywood subfloor must be reinforced by adding ” cement board, screwed into the plywood floor. If you already have vinyl flooring in your bathroom, and the floor is solid (such as over a concrete slab), you can tile right over it, however it is better to remove the vinyl and start with a clean subfloor.
Installing Tiles
You need to measure carefully and lay out tiles so that there is never less than a half-tile on any wall. If this happens, adjust the layout so that there are 2 larger tiles on either side. This will require more cuts, but produce a better finished product.
After measuring and snapping chalk lines to mark the center of the room, begin spreading your thinset mortar in one quadrant. Your mortar will specify the size of trowel to use based on the size of the tile you’re installing. Set each tile with a gentle push/twist into the mortar bed, and tap into place with a block of wood or rubber mallet.
For a square professional layout, insert rubber spacers between each tile and at the corners. The tiles along the edges will almost always need to be cut with your wet saw, leaving a gap around the edges the same width as your grout joints. These gaps will be filled with colored caulk or covered with shoe molding.
Grouting Tiles
Once the mortar has set up, remove the spacers and clean out any excess mortar that got into the joints. Mix your grout based on the manufacturer’s recommendation. Prepare a rinse bucket by adding a cup of vinegar to a couple gallons of water.
Starting in one corner and working in a small area, begin spreading grout and working it into the joints with your float. Hold the float at a 45 degree angle to the floor and the grout joints so that you don’t scrape out the grout. Make sure that all the joints are completely filled, and remove as much grout from the tile surfaces with your float as possible. After completing a small area, wipe down the extra grout with a damp sponge with rounded corners, rinsing and ringing out the sponge often. Be sure not to remove any grout from the joints. At this time you should also shape the joints using your finger or a tool with the appropriate shape. Complete the rest of the floor in the same manner, but leave the gap around the perimeter of the room open.
Your grout may need to be sealed, especially if it is sanded grout or is in a wet area such as a bathroom. Grout sealer is available at most home improvement stores. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for grout curing time and sealer application.
Finishing the Room
Where the tile meets the bathroom walls, you will need to cut and install shoe molding. Where the tile butts up against the vanity, you may use the same shoe molding, or alternatively find a piece of molding that matches the color of the vanity and use it instead. The joint between the tile and the shower or tub should be caulked, not grouted. Many grout manufacturers even sell sanded caulk in colors to match their grout.
To finish the installation, re-seat the toilet and add your matching decor for your new tile. With the right tools and a little hard work, you will have a new bathroom floor that you will be proud of.
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